What's not to love about Liguria? There’s the wild, rugged landscape, crisscrossed by hiking paths ranging from easy strolls to super-challenging ascents.
And what about the magnificent vineyards? Framed by a cobalt sea, vines grow on impossibly steep, terraced hillsides, producing varietals like Pigato and Vermentino that pair so well with pesto genovese and crunchy fritto misto.
Certainly, poets and artists found much to love about the area, attracted, in part, to the coast’s famously temperate climate where lush botanical gardens, palm trees, tropical flower, and basil farms flourish throughout the year.
You’ll be forgiven if you’ve ever confused “the Cinque Terre” with the entire region. The Cinque Terre, or ‘the Five Lands” — so famous for photogenic fishing villages Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore — are almost synonymous with the region that they practically eclipse all other aspects of Liguria.
But there’s so much more to explore than these popular hiking trails. In fact, there are many beguiling aspects that only truly can reveal themselves with time, so let’s take a peek at how to spend three perfect days in Liguria . . .
Day ONE: ENJOY SANTA MARGHERITA AND CAMOGLI
Either of the two towns of Santa Margherita Ligure or Camogli would make a great base for three to four nights. Santa Margherita Ligure is one of the gateway villages to the Portofino peninsula, and Camogli is the other. One road connects both towns, but the rest of the peninsula is car free.
Camogli
WHAT TO SEE: Crescent-shaped Santa Margherita Ligure is a beautiful town, sometimes referred to as “the living room” of the coast. Its enchanting seafront promenade combined with plenty of great restaurants and cafes’ make for a chic, relaxing home base.
It’s not as glitzy as the village of Portofino, but it’s just as pretty, plus it’s a real town, with a sizable local population making it perfect for people-watching.
Camogli is equally enchanting, and even less touristed. Camogli (elided from “Le case delle moglie,” or “the houses of the (fishermans’) wives”) is famous for its colorful houses with painted facades that look exactly like real decorative stonework. The French call this technique “trompe l’oeil” or “trick of the eye.” It’s used widely throughout the Portofino peninsula.
Personally, I think it makes these small towns look like a movie set. Try walking around town to see if you can distinguish art from real life. It’s not always that easy!
DRINK AND STROLL: In Santa Margherita Ligure, take time to visit the Villa Durazzo and its botanical gardens.
Once a private villa, then a hotel, this romantic 16th-century manor is now open to the public. Channel your inner Lord Byron while sipping a glass of Vermentino while overlooking the villa’s meticulously manicured gardens.
You’ll want to participate in the town’s pre-dinner passeggiata. Passeggiata in English translates to “stroll,” and this is definitely the moment the town comes out to “see and be seen” each night.
DAY TWO: BIKE (OR HIKE) THE DRAMATIC LANDSCAPE OF THE PORTOFINO PENINSULA
EAT: Start Day 2 by heading to the town of Recco to seek out one of the area’s most divine food traditions: focaccia di Recco.
A layer of hot, melted local crescenza cheese is layered between two paper-thin slices of stretched dough and cooked for just minutes at very high heat.
The result is a delectable creation that’s so mind-blowingly tasty the European Union granted it special protected status. In the same way you can only call it Champagne if it comes from Champagne, France, you can only get focaccia di Recco in, well, Recco. So don’t miss your chance! For finger-lickin’ focaccia, try Panificio Moltedo in town.
EXPLORE: Spend a day traversing the wild, rugged coastline of the Portofino coast by bike (or on foot). From Santa Margherita Ligure, I can set you up with bikes or e-bikes to follow the trails along the coastal road and up onto the peninsula.
Once you arrive in Portofino, no bikes are allowed, so grab a gelato and enjoy the promenade around the crescent-shaped port.
This tiny fishing village became a jet-set destination in the post-WWII era, and not much has changed. Still today, its jewel box-like palazzi, with their colorful pink and orange trompe l’oeil facades compete for attention with luxury yachts that bob in the harbor.
Portofino’s waterfront promenade is bedecked with cafes allowing those of us not-so-rich and not-so-famous to still see and be seen.
In the afternoon, e-bike or hoof your way to a dreamy organic, sustainable farm perched on top of a rocky outcropping. Fruit trees, an organic vegetable garden, and flower beds overlook the ocean.
With a restored ancient mill as your backdrop, enjoy an expertly curated picnic of the farm’s handmade products — different types of honey, olive oils, hams, and freshly-picked produce, pestos, desserts, craft beers, and wines from the farm’s vineyard. The setting is magical, as is the food. This beautiful farm and its setting is an experience you won’t soon forget.
Return to your hotel riding (or hiking) along paths with breathtaking views of the Gulf of Tigullio. Or skip the physical activity and hop into a pristinely waxed Venetian-style motorboat so you can enjoy the coast and even have time for a swim in the late afternoon light.
DAY THREE: PESTO, GENOVA and its OLD WORLD SHOPS
VISIT: Genova offers one of the most unusual and beautiful historical centers in all of Europe. Be prepared to hike (and eat) your way around town because, like much of the surrounding topography, Genova is built on a hillside.
Wandering the city’s “carrugi” alleyways — cobblestone steps that form the city’s network of back streets and alleyways — is the essence of any visit here.
Spend the morning visiting the city’s old-world specialty shops that seem plucked from another era, or maybe even a scene from Harry Potter: spice shops, barbershops, map shops, bookbinders, butchers, tailors, fried foods, focaccerie, bakeries, chocolate shops – all focused on their specific craft, and all still wonderfully preserved in Art Noveau or turn-of-the-century style. These beautiful, functional specialty shops serve as monuments to a bygone era.
COOK: Your day in Genova will end with a culinary education in basil production, one of Liguria’s many contributions to the food world. The historical basil greenhouses of Genova have been cultivating Genovese basil (the only kind you can use for authentic pesto) for around two centuries. With insights from a local food writer, learn the secrets of working the mortar and pestle. According to local tradition, prepare a lunch of sweetly scented pesto with handmade trofie pasta and traditional focaccia.
Clearly, three days in Liguria are not enough. There are many more experiences to enjoy, far from crowded beaches or hiking trails. On your next trip, allow me to help you extend your stay further with secret Cinque Terre hikes and divine winetasting on terraced vineyards, or arrange a truly spectacular day onboard a private boat visiting the small offshore islands to enjoy the coastline’s impressive cliffs and grottoes.
Our insider tips on everything from the best places to eat to navigating the coast will transform your experience from visitor to insider.
