The Maremma and Coastal Tuscany: Where to Stay and What to Do
The Maremma and coastal Tuscany are a wonderfully slow areas, well off the beaten path, and perfect for a few days at the end of a trip to relax without the fast-paced comings-and-goings of a packed Italian itinerary.
If you’re a frequent traveler to Italy, or you’re looking for something new to explore, consider this shortlist of 6 unique experiences in the Maremma and around coastal Tuscany that will get you started in the right direction for exploring this quiet, unsung corner of a popular Italian region.
Where to Stay
First things first: where to sleep. You can choose to stay in any number of the area’s small, family-run inns or farmhouses if you’d like, but my top pick for the area is, without question, L’Andana, the perfect home base from which to explore the rest of coastal Tuscany.
Set in the heart of the Maremma region, L’Andana is a wonderfully secluded Tuscan villa featuring excellent spa options, an outdoor pool and jacuzzi, tennis court, mountain bikes, beautiful grounds, wide-open spaces, and even a small golf course.
Did I mention it has a Michelin-starred restaurant? Families and foodies alike will rejoice in L’Andana’s cult-like attention to food and drink, from its cooking classes, its daily sumptuous breakfasts, lavish picnic spreads, tastings that can be arranged, plus choice among its two excellent restaurants.
What to Do in the Maremma
I’d suggest at least a three- to four-night stay at L’Andana’s gracious country estate to allow time to enjoy its spa, its beautiful grounds and surroundings, and the hotel’s incredible food.
Add to that any of the following suggested experiences below and you have all the makings of an easy-going and thoroughly authentic Maremman side trip in Tuscany.
1. Sample Exclusive Wines in Bolgheri
Hands down, this is one of the best reasons to visit if you are a connoisseur of fine wine.
Bolgheri, a tiny medieval hamlet with a big reputation, is home to some of the world’s most exclusive wines. This region produces some of the most famous “Super Tuscans,” a nickname given to red wines that were first made in the 1970s by innovative Tuscan wine-makers and enhanced by the superb climate.
For true wine aficionados, a visit to the very exclusive Ornellaia or Sassicaia will be in order. In fact, 2021 is Sassicaia’s 50th anniversary and it’s one of Italy’s most notable wines, and often one of its very best.
These vineyards are notoriously difficult to get into, but I’ve got the insider track to get you through the doors if your wish is to sip some of the wine world’s most exquisite vintages. It’s best to plan well in advance for the best shot at getting an exclusive tasting.
You can also spend your day exploring a few of the many excellent vineyards in the area. I’ll help you arrange visits to the best wineries in the area to suit your personal tastes.
Yet another reason to visit Bolgheri is to dine nearby at Osteria Magona. A collaboration between Dario Cecchini—the beloved “butcher of Tuscany” (pioneer of ‘snout to tail’ dining fame), and Omar Barsacchi, this is mecca for meat- and cheese-lovers,
You’ll find everything that makes Tuscan cuisine so delectable: hand-cured meats and cheeses from their cellar, handmade fresh pasta, truffles, vegetables from their farm, and of course locally sourced meats. Vegetarians, avert your eyes!
2. Visit Elba Island and Monte Argentario
”Able was I ere I saw Elba!” A befitting palindrome that never fails to remind me of my own visit to the big island in the Tuscan archipelago.
Six miles off the coast of Piombino lies Elba Island, is a popular summer destination for Italians and for travelers who are looking for an authentic Italian getaway. It’s best visited in early summer or even early fall as July and August can see its pebbly beaches packed with vacationing locals.
The island itself is a hiker’s dream, full as it is of beautiful trails. There are also some wineries, lovely villages to explore, fresh seafood restaurants, and two villas where Napoleon once lived.
The promontory of Monte Argentario is another great place to explore. The town of Orbetello — sandwiched between two lagoons — is a truly authentic Italian town. The pristine lagoon offers gentle, sandy beaches, a nature reserve, loads of bird watching options, plus you’ll discover Etruscan ruins all over the promontory.
Meanwhile, the villages of Porto Ercole and Porto Santo Stefano are vibrant, feel exclusive, and are filled with yachts and people watching along the waterfront. Santo Stefano celebrates noisily every August 15 with a regatta and fireworks.
3. Spend the Day Sustainably Fishing
Pescaturismo, or fishing tourism, might not be something you’ve heard of unless you’re an avid fisherman, but Paolo, your guide for today, has been hosting these trips for over a decade with a major focus on sustainable fishing and eco-tourism.
Head out on Paolo’s boat, and he will help you make your catch. As a reward, Paolo will cook up your freshly-caught lunch right on the boat, regaling you with stories about the region and what’s being done to protect the Maremma coastline from overfishing, a real passion of his.
4. Visit a Town Carved from Stone
Pitigliano, a town literally carved from the volcanic stone, reflects Italy’s true essence and dates back to the Bronze Age. It is known today as Little Jerusalem for its active Jewish community.
There are plenty of places to visit in Pitigliano, depending on your interests, including vineyards with both red and white wines, lots of churches, and the ruins of a necropolis and a temple.
The Jewish history here dates back to the 14th century, but the Medici annexed Pitigliano in the 17th-century, forcing Jews into ghettos. You can visit the Jewish Museum, synagogue, and ghetto.
There are also unique remnants of these times reflected in some of the area’s foods. Take the sfratti, for example, a stick-shaped biscuit filled with ground walnuts, honey, orange peel, and nutmeg, all wrapped in dough. This tasty treat was created from the limited ingredients once available in the ghettos. “Sfratti” actually translates to “eviction.”
5. Meet the Tuscan Cowboy
The butteri are the ancient cattlemen of Tuscany, and you can spend a few hours learning about their lifestyle and history.
The butteri spend their days herding the Maremmen bull, whose massively long and pointed horns come from their ancestors: wild bulls that were imported by the Barbarian Army who went on to sack Rome. Today will give you an insight into the age-old techniques used by the butteri to herd this unique breed of cattle.
6. Cycle Through Undulating Hills
Biking, or e-biking, can be a fantastic way to take in the beautiful scenery of the Tuscan coast. Pedal your way along cypress-lined roads, through forested hillsides, across wheat plains, or along the stunning coast.
There are so many cycling options in this area, but I recommend a path that takes you from L’Andana to the coast, up into the hills, and through picturesque villages to an agriturismo spot for lunch. I’ll set you up with bike rentals and an easy map that will show you the way, setting the wheels in motion for a perfect day exploring the Maremma.
No matter how you choose to spend your time, ending an Italian journey with a few days on the Tuscan coast will help you to unwind and relax, all while still getting to know the Maremma, a destination that is authentically Italian.
Would you like help planning a journey including coastal Tuscany? Get in touch to discuss your next trip!